“Challis Kimono-Style Jacket” by Kathy King

I love the versatility of the kimono design because you can vary the type of sleeves, neckline, bands, and overall length. I chose a “duster” length for a little drama and fun. As I mentioned before, I love to travel. This jacket has already been to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, the white sand beaches of Zanzibar, Tanzania, and the fabulous Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe.




I love this gorgeous challis floral print from Elliott Berman Textiles (@EBTfabrics). Florals continue to be very on trend for all types of fabrics used by designers and for ready-to-wear. And turquoise…a color that flatters everyone! This challis is a smooth lightweight flowy fabric that is easy to care for – it machine washes (low temp) and dries (low temp) beautifully. I used an organza pressing cloth to avoid impressions along the seam lines.

Digital Floral Print Viscose Challis, Italy, Elliott Berman Textiles (@EBTfabrics).



I used All Dunn Designs’ Flatlock Jacket pattern.

Since each of the garment pieces start out as rectangles, I was able to rip the fabric (a first for me) into the required blocks while maintaining perfect lengthwise and crosswise grain. The photo below shows how this pattern is near zero waste!! This pattern was easy, fast to make, and can be altered for any desired length.










Garment pieces folded (from bottom to top): front & back, sleeves, neck/front band, only a 5” square left over!!



Because I wanted a “duster” length for this beautiful fabric, I lengthened the body to 40” total and added 1” to the sleeves. I also widened the neck/front band by ½” just to give it more presence. Since I used only 1 fabric (not 2 contrasting per the pattern), I combined the panels in the front and the back into single pattern pieces before cutting (tearing). As I do on most garments, I made a high round back adjustment (1/2”).


I interfaced the neck/front band and the sleeves to add body to the drape of the garment.

This pattern calls for decorative flatlock stitching (a 2-thread serger stitch) on all seams. I used the flatlock stitch to join only the neck/front band and the sleeves to the body. I used regular weight thread in the needle (tension = 0) and a dark green heavier weight thread in the looper (tension=3) to highlight these seams. The heavier thread and the flatlock stitch make the band and the sleeves stand out a little more. Check out your serger manual for this fun and decorative stitch! I used a 3-thread overlock on all other seams and a coverstitch on the hem.

                                                                           Flatlock stitch “front”: heavier weight dark green looper thread.


Flatlock stitch “back”: regular weight gray needle thread.



Maycie says resting on gorgeous is so much better than watching!


Happy Sewing, Kathy

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